The Forgotten Land: Myanmar

THE DECISION

I have not imagine what it is like, traveling to a country which some part of the states are totally out of the sight from foreign tourists or traveller. Nowadays, the move made by the Myanmar government by opening up the country by giving the opportunity to the travellers to experience the culture, beautiful landscape and friendly people of Myanmar.

 I was reading some of the articles on the NLD and Aung San Su Kyi when I saw in Airasia website that the return flight tickets to Yangon, the capital city of Myanmar (Burma) costs USD52. I surely don't want to miss the opportunity to visit the country and purchased the flight ticket online.

 This is where I do more research on the accommodation, a must see places to-go-to, food that I need to try and also people that I need to meet up! And yes, Lonely Planet  Lonely Planet Myanmar would be my travel bible. Like wise, I love to travel alone but in the end, I am always with another travellers or locals who hang out and sometimes we travel together.

 

Day 1: Kuala Lumpur to Yangon (27 Dec 2012: 0650hrs)

 

Before going off

 

I have been outing with my old friends the night before for a Couchsurfer meet up, bringing along my backpack at the meet up place as I make sure that I wouldn't be late for my flight! A taxi from Changkat Bukit Bintang to KL Sentral cost me around MYR9 (including midnight surcharge). I took the Skybus(they have the red color and yellow bus) to LCCT around 3.45am and arrived the Low Cost Terminal(LCCT) an hour later. The cost for a single journey to LCCT is MYR8.

 

Boarding for Yangon

 

Luckily for me, I have checked-in online and I do not require any baggage

check-in. The departure flight from Kuala Lumpur to Yangon is at 6.50am. I was totally exhausted and just trying to keep myself awake as I was totally sleepy.

What a sleepless night in the airport!

 

The announcement made by Airasia staff announced that we need to wak to the tarmec no F85 where the plane awaits for us to be board. It was like walking endless as the tarmec was far from the main terminal. A few steps before boarding on plane and get my seat. I am definitely ready to take off!

 

There were delay but finally we were on air, flying high. The flight will take around 2 hours and 35mins.

 

Goodbye Kuala Lumpur.

See you again on the 30th Dec 2013.

 

Due to my excitement, I could really fall asleep. I was lucky that I had my seat near the window. Suddenly I saw familiar landmark of Penang, The Penang bridge and Komtar. It was amazing. I was a bit dosed off for the next few hours until I heard the announcement," Ladies and gentlemen, we are going to land shortly in 5mins. Kinldy put on your safety belt and the use of lavatory is not allowed. Kindly remain at your seat.Thank you!".

All I can see out from my window was a total flat land, less green but a lot of rivers and small buildings. And we touched down safely!

 

 

Touched down!

 After 5 minutes, we finally landed safely at Yangon International Airport. What's the first thing I saw from the plane was,"Impressive!". What I had in my mind about the airport was grabby and old but reality, the airport was a modern airport with a up-to-date facilities. I was wrong!.Never under estimate, that's for sure!







And I am impressed for my new finding.The immigration line took me almost 15minutes as there's a lot of checking on the visa needed on the passport.I was the last person who went thru the immigration.After, I had to line up to change the currency and getting some Kyats.The rate was USD1=Kyat 851.

Kyat(or the local pronounce as Jat or chat) is the official Myanmar currency although the accepted USD as well.But bare in mind that they only accepted the new and crisp notes/bills dated year 2006 and above.If there's a bit of pen mark or any marks on the money, they won't accept it.Luckily, I changed USD200 only, that gives me Kyat 170,200.Suddenly I feel like a rich girl!And my adventure starts from here....

Being a solo traveller does gives you a chance to choose what you want to do without consulting anyone.I saw a young Chinese guy was wandering and going the same way I was. Without hesitation, I asked him if he has any hotel bookings made and travel plans. He said he has no plan.And I offered him to follow me as I knew some cheap guesthouse in Yangon(Which I have done research and finger cross that I had the room that I want since it is peak season).He agreed and we shared the same taxi.A total stranger and in the end, went to the same place together.His name is Mr.W, a Malaysian who works in Australia and comes to Myanmar to attend a friend's wedding in Taungyi.

We had a really nice taxi driver name U Soe Win.I can't really said that he has a good English but as long as both of us understand, we are okay with that.The standard rate for a taxi to go from the Airport to Yangon City Centre is USD10 per way. Off course, we split the costs anyway.Our destination is Mahabandoola Guest House located at 453/459 (2nd Floor), Maha Bandoola Road at Pabedan Township. It is just a minute away from the beautiful Sule Pagoda. It looks a bit old like building from far but it was okay.A basic place to stay with hot shower and place to sleep.I don't expect any comfy or five start treatment.We had to go up to the second floor which where the reception was. We were lucky that we have the last room which cost USD10 per night.

(I was thinking to get the dorm but it was full according to the guy at the reception).Without hesitation,Wilson and I agreed to take up the room since both of us are really tired from the long waiting at the airport and I had to take shower and freshing up.We had a nice room 203, just next to the 'dorm'. Besides Mahabandoola guesthouse, there were few others guesthouses that have been mentioned in Lonely Planet or Tripadvisor. The guesthouses near Sule Paya (Mahabandoola road & Mahabandoola garden street) are:-

- May Shan Hotel (USD45 - USD80 per room per night). Located near Sule Paya

- Chan Myaye (USD20 and above per room per night).Located at Mahabandoola Garden Street

- Cherry Guesthouse (USD15 and above per room per night).Located next to Chan Myaye

- Okinawa Guesthouse (USD20 and above)

- Green Garden Guesthouse (USD25 and above).Opposite Mahabandoola

- Mahabandoola Guesthouse (USD10 for room per night,USD5 for dorm per night). Located opposite Sule Paya.

NOTE: Couchsurfing concept is not relevant here in Myanmar as the government has a strict rule on hosting foreigners in locals house. If they were found out, the government will set a trial and both parties will be in jail as you have brake the law.

Room 203 at USD10 per night at Mahabandoola Guesthouse
 



Mahabandoola Guesthouse



 

Sule Paya Pagoda

Meet up with the local

After the long journey and a very tiring night, I head for shower. That was the best hot shower I have ever had! The toilet and shower room at the guesthouse is clean. As soon as I wanted to get some rest, I had a message from the reception that a friend of mine is waiting for me downstairs. I was wondering who could that be? It turns out that Row kept his promises. A 18 years old college student who is eager to learn English name Row.He came along with his shy friend. I told Row that I'm with a friend and if he doesn't mind, he will be tagging along. Thank god that he is okay with that and flattered that he could practise on his English language.

Row took me and Mr.W walking along the road and have some local milk tea and the local street food that looks so yummy! I was a bit starving as I didn't have food for breakfast. We walked from Sule Paya Rd till the junction of Shwe Bonta St. Along Shwe Bonta St towards Bogyoke Market, there were lots of Optical shops and as well as pharmacies. It feels like we were in one section in a supermarket! Along the road as well, there were mosque and fruit sellers that sell strawberries, a really big avocado, oranges and other fruits that looks so fresh. Just imagine that I saw 'buah salak' which I thought only planted in Indonesia.

It was noon and the sun shone really bright. We were opposite of the famous Bogyoke market (It sounds like Boh-joke market). It reminds me more like Central Market in Kuala Lumpur where you have a market that sells a lot of local products, local art works and also souvenir or gifts for tourist. What amaze me in Bogyoke is the 'old fashion' fire estinguisher that is so big that they put it in the middle of the walkway in between small shops. In Bogyoke, they promote the local jade that is said to be the best. I have no idea how to grade the jade that I couldn't even bother to buy one. The only shop that captured my eyes are shops that sells local product from various ethnic in Myanmar like Shan and Kachin tribe. I really love the design and colors of the bags; small or big. In the end, I do buy some souvenir on my first day in Yangon! Mr W as well bought some for himself.

Row later on have to excuse himself and left us at the market wandering. Both of us are starving. We managed to find some local dish and were surprised to see their hospitality.

Normal, sometimes when we ask for things that we want in the end, the food turns into some other food. We had a little bit of noodles and rice. That is where we met Mr.R, who is having his lunch on the table next to us! The three off us then walk out from Bogyoke and walking back to our guesthouse. Mr R is looking for a new place to stay as the one that he had was a bit creepy. We showed him out guesthouse and he really likes it and decided to come here again the next day.

 

Day 2: Discover Yangon (28 December 2012) 

New Friendship

 

Mr R finally came to our place the next day. Believe it or not, he is staying next to our room; at the dorm. I had another meet up with another local guy. Since Mr R and Mr W is with me, they agreed to meet up with the local guy name Koko. We had some breakfast at the small chinese restaurant next to our guesthouse for Kyat 2200 (MYR7.80) per person ( A really huge portion of local fried egg noodle with a glass of Sunkist - the orange drink).

A walk towards the Traders hotel is not that far after you had a hefty meal in the morning. We met Koko and we were fashionably late. I felt guilty to turn up late and we offered to buy him some drinks at a local tea house near Bogyoke Aung San Rd. opposite the cinema and shopping centre. We had some chats and make plans with Koko on how do we spend our quality time in the city. After discussion, we went of to the Tower as recommended by Lonely Planet. Turns out that we are not allowed to take any pictures unless if we are the patron. At last, we went down to the lobby. By the time, Mr R already went to some other places and left the three of us. We later decided to go to:

 

National Museum of Yangon

(Closed on Monday, Tuesday and Government gazetted Holiday).

Opening hour: 10.00 am till 4.00 pm; tickets available until 3.30pm

 

The taxi from the tower to National Museum is Kyat 3000 (MYR11.00) and the entrance fee for the National Museum for foreigner is either USD5 or EUR5. They don't allowed any camera or phones in the museum. You can leave your belonging at the locker place outside the museum that is being guarded. Just make sure you bring along valuable items such as money.

There's not much to see in the museum unless if you really like the history of Burma. I personally like the exhibit on the 3rd Floor where they show the different ethnic in Myanmar in their local dressing. There's also the exhibition of painting and the art works by the past masters of art and as well as the ornaments of ancestors from Pyu Period to Yadanabon Period. The first floor of the museum feature the Royal Regalia Showroom, Myanmar Historic Period and the Natural History.

I found out that there is so much similarity in Malay culture back in Malaysia. After spending nearly 2 hours in the museum, we decided we need to head back to Mahabandoola St. to have our late lunch. The taxi from National Museum to Mahabandoola Rd cost us Kyat 2000 (MYR7.00).

 

We had our lunch at one of the Nilar Briyani & Cold Drinks. I love the chicken briyani and Koko was actuall shocked to see me eating with my fingers! Late lunch and a Sunkist is my perfect lunch that cost me less than Kyat 4000. The next destination is the Shwedagon Paya.

 

Shwedagon Paya
 

Entrance fee for foreigner: USD5 per person

Dress Code:

For woman - Cover the shoulder and wear long pants

For man - Wear long pants or you can wear 'Longyi'

* No shoes are allowed. They have a shoe rack before entering the lift.

Taxi fare from Mahabandoola to Shwedagon : Kyat 2000 (MYR7)

Taxi fare from Shwedagon to Mahabandoola: Kyat 2000 (MYR7)

 

Shwedagon Paya is the most recognisable icon for Myanmar of you come to Yangon. The golden dome was one of the main attraction. There are a lot of tourist flocking to this place especially during the sunset as the reflection on the golden dome is spectacular. We were there for almost 2 hours and left before the sunset and head back to Mahabandoola St.

 

Local dish

We were exhausted as we had the whole day touring the city and decided to stop at a local street food. We tried to eat the local dish call 'Lat Phat'. The pickled tea leaves, eaten in a salad with roasted or deep-fried nuts and beans and sesame etc. The prepared tea-leaf pulp tastes like pesto and we can add lime or chillies as to add different taste to it.

 

The night is still young, we head to our guesthouse to change our clothes while KoKo waiting for us to freshng up. There were some miscommunication between Koko and the reception guy that we decided that we need to get a massage based on Lonely Planet recommendation. We went to Sari Health and Beauty Centre that is located opposite of Savoy hotel. At first, Koko brought us at the dodgy nightclub that we went the night before.

Such an awkward moment. Then we took the taxi and went to a better and establish well known spa center for foot massage. It's kind off hard to get to the spa center as we couldn't find it through Lonely Planet. In the end, we got off the cab and start walking and looking for the place. Luckily, we found it. It seems that the map given in Lonely Planet is incorrect.

 

Spa : Seri Beauty & Health (Opposite Savoy hotel at the traffic light junction)
Add: No 118,Dhamazedi Road, Bahan Township, Yangon
Website: www.seribeautynhelath.com
 

We had a warm welcome from the spa's staff at the entrance. The services that they provide are:
- Hair treatment (Cut,wave,colour,shampoo)
- Facial treatment (Mask, Gold Treatment,Ultrasound treatment)
- Body treatment
- Muscles and Nerves treatment (Sport treatment)
- Foot Reflexology

In the end we decided to do the foot reflexology for 60min. The price is Kyat 9000 per person. The three of us get the big room where we have our aching feet some salt scrub and reflexology massage. It is so refreshing!

We left the spa center and headed to our guesthouse. That night is the last night for Mr W in Yangon as he needs to leave for Taungyi in the morning at 5am.

Day 3: Meet up with Koko (29 December 2012)

I had a promise with Koko to go to the monastery in the morning to teach English. He reached early and we left for his home which is near to the monastery. The journey took me at least 40mins from the town center and it is also the way to the airport. We were heading to the Shwe Pauk Kan Myoint Thit, Northokkalapa Township. It cost me Kyat 6000(MYR7.00) for that journey. When we reached his home, his mom came up from the kitchen. After a while in the house, we left for the monastery by motorbike.
Note: The government doesn't allowed motorbikes from entering the city. They will get fined if they goes in the city with motorbikes.
As soon as we reached at the monastery, Koko introduced me to the local English teacher and the rest of the English class. I was thinking that the English class is mend for little children instead the English class is for adult between the age of 18-40 yrs old. The lesson given are free and there were no fees required. I have the opportunity to meet the head of the monastery who gave the lesson for free, Rev Ashin Wa Ra Sa Mi.
The add for the monastery:
Dham Ma Rek Khi Ta Monastery
Zabuaye Compound
Phone: 01 9 690 576, 09 5044 226
Note: If anyone interested to come to this monastery, please give a call in advance to Rev Ashin.

I had new friends from the monastery, I can say that they are 'my student'. We left after the English class session ended adn went to the local restaurant to have some drinks.
The whole day with them was the best memory I've ever had in Yangon. I had local lunch with local family, got my cheek painted with 'Thanarka' and got into local bus with the girls and Koko. The bus conductor thought that I was a local Burmese girl until I say a word in English. He was surprised but happy to see me saying ' Jay szuh bay' (Means thank you in Burmese ~ simplified). Then again, I 'disguise' as local Burmese girl, not paying any single Kyat to the entrance fee at one of the temple we went. I have save my USD5! Thanks to them. I like my new 'Burmese' look!..I left the place in the evening and went back to the guesthouse, freshing up and went to Tokyo Cafe that is just across the guesthouse for free Wi-Fi.

Finally, I met Lone Lone from Couchsurfing Yangon with two others, a girl from Thai and a girl from Japan. We then decided to have a dinner at one of the Shan Restaurant just a walking distance from the guesthouse. I was so hungry that I ate all of it in a few minutes. The food was good and cheap too. Thanks Nuchie for the dinner! It was awesome meeting the three of you. You make my last night in Yangon memorable. I headed back to the guesthouse as the time past midnight and start packing for my flight the next day.

Day 4: Last day in Yangon (30 December 2012)

Today is Alex's and his twin brother Aurelien's birthday.
I woke up today a little bit late. My flight is at 1635hrs and I have 4 hours to wonder around the city before I left. The night before, I met Mr Y from Japan. Mr Y and I went to the local Indian restaurant for breakfast. We went for New Delhi Restaurant as recommended by the Lonely Planet. I had my paratha set and Mr Y had his Dosai set which looks so yummy. Right after a good breakfast, Mr Y left for the National Museum and I make my way to Bogyoke Aung San Market to look for souvenir. Things are not pretty cheap at the market. The best way was to bargain if you intend to buy a lot!

I left the guesthouse around 2pm. The journey took me half an hour to reach the airport. The taxi driver charge me Kyat 6000(MYR7). I was a bit hungry by the time I reached the airport while waiting for Koko. He promised to send me off before I go back to Kuala Lumpur. Eventually he came just on time for me to go and check-in. Before that, I managed to change most of my Kyat to USD at the departure hall. They really give a good rate over here. I know someday I'll be coming again to Myanmar.
Now it's time for me to boarding the plane. Kuala Lumpur awaits me for it's New Year's Eve Party!..

See you again Myanmar!

**More picture to be downloaded soon!